Oh my God, Prague is great. And despite it being a land swimming in butter and pork, eating vegan in Prague is actually quite easy, and often quite delicious.
Our first meal was at Country Life, a vegetarian buffet place near the Old Town Square (address: Melantrichova 463/15). The sauerkraut and potatoes were both amazing, but some of the protein patty things were a bit odd/unexpectedly cold.
Omni's plate. Omni loves potatoes more than anyone else on earth:
The restaurant itself is nice, clean, and airy. Free water too!
Next up, Beas vegetarian Indian buffet. This was my favourite meal in Prague. We went to the branch at Tynska 19, which is located in a little courtyard. The vegan options were clearly labelled, and everything we tried was delicious. Free water here, also! Amazingly tasty samosa, great curries, and perfect pickles and chutneys.
Loveg only opened this summer, but seems to be doing good business already. It also happens to be located just a few doors down from our hotel (the Golden Star) at Nerudova 36, so it would have been rude not to pay them a visit.
I started with the quesadilla: garlicky aubergine, vegan cheese, and a tasty salsa all grilled to perfection and served with good guacamole and a nice side salad:
Omni had a momentary lapse and ordered a raw soup. We're not sure what flavour it was. He liked it, I thought it tasted like liquid dust:
Then I had the 'vegan sirloin', which was advertised as coming with a cream sauce and dumplings. In fact it was just strips of tempeh (delicious! There's a tempeh famine going on in Paris and I haven't been able to find any for months), sitting on what tasted like reduced carrot soup. The dumplings looked exactly like those I'd seen at meaty restaurants. And there was jam. Czech food seems to like mixing sweet and savoury. I wasn't a huge fan:
Omni had some broccoli patty things, served with great black beans and awful mash which managed to be everything you don't want from mash: cold, gluey, AND lumpy all at once. The beer was delicious.
We didn't just eat at vegan/vegetarian restaurants. Getting hold of animal-friendly food at 'normal' Prague restaurants wasn't as difficult as I'd feared, and I enjoyed the following:
Crispy fried cauliflower at a tiny one-man, one-woman operation:
Spaghetti aglio-olio. This is actually on the menu at quite a few (non-Italian) restaurants, and I had it twice. This was the better version:
And some simple, tasty grilled vegetables enjoyed on a reverside terrace in the sunshine.
Bonus beasties spotted as we walked about. This guy was tootling along on his way home after a night on the tiles: